Chiffon, charmeuse and shantung have you in a swirl? Navigating bridesmaid dress fabrications can seem daunting, especially your first time. What exactly is peau de soie and for god’s sake what will it feel like? Here I present a tutorial in bridesmaid dress fabrics and finishes—it’s all you need to know to help you choose which finish is right for the styles you like or the type of event you’re planning.
First of all, there’s a difference between a fabric and a finish. Fabrics are cotton, silk, nylon, rayon or polyester, to name a few. Finishes are terms like chiffon, taffeta, and satin. It’s important to know the difference. Most people are more familiar with fabric than finish, so we’ll cover finishes here. If a dress is listed as “satin,” this does not mean it is made of silk. Synthetic fibers like polyester and rayon can easily take on a satin finish, so be sure to check closely before making a decision.
It’s also important to note that while the descriptions below give a general idea of each finish, the characteristics of the fabric can vary greatly based on the quality of fabric the retailer uses. Some satins will feel much smoother than others, just as some taffeta will be stiffer. That’s why it’s important to feel the fabric yourself before committing. Request a swatch to make sure it looks and feels the way you think (and hope) it will.
Chiffon
Chiffon is very lightweight and flowing, meaning that it does not cling to the body and is very good for styles with a lot of draping, like dresses with empire waists. It can be a bit sheer, so you will often find it draped in multiple layers. Chiffon is a nice fabric for muted colors and pastels because it does not have a distinct sheen, allowing delicate colors come through. It can be found in regular or “crinkle” chiffon, meaning that the fabric will have a subtle accordion pleat. Chiffon is ideal for outdoor or daytime weddings, as its light weight will keep girls cool. (Dresses: Watters and J.Crew)
Georgette
Georgette is quite similar to chiffon in drape and feel. It is only slightly heavier than chiffon and a bit less sheer. It is ideal for outdoor or daytime weddings, as its light weight will keep girls cool. (Dresses: Ann Taylor and Dessy)
Voile
Voile has the draping power of chiffon, but with a subtle sheen and a bit more weight. It is most often applied to cottons or cotton blends, resulting in a lightweight, breathable fabric. It tends to have a sort of luminosity to it and is a bit sheer. It also has quite a bit more structure than a chiffon, making it good for full or A-line skirts. It is ideal for outdoor or daytime weddings and can appear a bit more casual than other fabrications. (Dresses: Dessy and Watters)
Cady
Cady has a nice balance of stretch and structure. Most often applied to cotton, this finish holds it shape well, but is quite smooth with a hint of stretch. It has a very minimal sheen, almost to the point of being matte. It is ideal for outdoor or daytime weddings and can appear a bit more casual than other fabrications. (Dresses: J.Crew)
Satin
When we think of silk, the texture we normally envision is satin. In reality, silk can be rendered in almost any finish, but the adjective “silky” describes it in satin form. It is smooth and soft to the touch, and usually quite lightweight, though the degree of softness will vary across retailers. It tends to drape with the body, meaning it’s good for form-fitting styles, and it has a lot of movement (think twirling on the dance floor). Most satin has a subtle sheen, meaning it will catch the light slightly. Satin is best for formal or nighttime weddings. It should be avoided for events that will be held in high heat, as it shows sweat easily. (Dresses: After Six and Watters)
Charmeuse
A cousin to satin, charmeuse has the same sheen and drape as satin, but is lighter and even a bit softer. Its sheen is a bit more muted and its drape a bit more liquid. It is best for formal or nighttime weddings. It should be avoided for events that will be held in high heat, as it shows sweat easily. (Dresses: Dessy and Bari Jay)
Peau De Soie
Also known as Duchess Satin. As its second name implies, peau de soie is similar to satin, but more structured. It has the medium weight and smooth feel of satin, but a bit more stiffness, which lends it to being used in a wide variety of styles. It is also much less shiny than satin or charmeuse, bordering on matte. It is best for formal or nighttime weddings. It should be avoided for events that will be held in high heat, as it shows sweat easily. (Dresses: Alfred Sung)
Mikado
This stiffer, blended fabric has a heavier weight, making it an ideal choice for structured dresses. It has a slight sheen, similar to peau de soie, but also a subtle texture. Mikado is commonly thought of as a winter fabric. (Dresses: Alfred Sung and Watters)
Dupioni
Dupioni tends to be stiff and hold its shape, making it good for dresses with a bit of volume or with structural pleats. However, this means that it’s difficult to alter the shape of the dress, even with ironing, so if it poofs in places you don’t want it to poof, it’s going to stay that way. It is made from raw fibers, which results in a bit of a grain in the fabric that looks like tiny textural horizontal lines. It also feels a bit rough to the touch because of the raw fibers, but it holds vibrant colors very well. Dupioni has a strong sheen, which can really make a color pop. In my opinion this fabric tends to look better in photographs than it does in real life. It is versatile enough to work for day or night weddings, but does tend to look more formal. (Dresses: Watters and Alfred Sung)
Taffeta
Taffeta is very similar to dupioni in weight and structure. The fabric is crisp and a bit weighty and holds its shape very well. However, the major difference between these two finishes is in the appearance and feel of the fabric. While dupioni appears textured, taffeta is very smooth and more tightly woven. Taffeta’s sheen will depend very much on the lighting. In dim or natural lighting, the material can appear almost matte, but in bright or studio lighting (like your photographer may use) the fabric can come off quite shiny. It is versatile enough to work for day or night weddings, but does tend to look more formal. (Dresses: Watters and J.Crew)
Faille
Like dupioni and taffeta, faille holds its shape well, making it good for dresses with a bit of volume or with structural pleats. However, this means that it’s difficult to alter the shape of the dress, even with ironing, so if it poofs in places you don’t want it to poof, it’s going to stay that way. It has a much subtler sheen than both dupioni and taffeta, but still has texture—in this case, a subtle ribbed quality. This finish can be applied to many fabrics, from silk and cotton to rayon and viscose, so it’s a good idea to request a swatch to get the exact feeling of the dress. It is versatile enough to work for day or night weddings, and its subtle sheen makes it almost seasonless. (Dresses: J.Crew and Weddington Way)
Shantung
I think of shantung as kind of a midway between dupioni and taffeta. It has the same crisp, structured feeling and heft as both fabrics. It is not as finely woven as taffeta, but has less texture than dupioni. It is versatile enough to work for day or night weddings, but does tend to look more formal. (Dresses: Wtoo and Jenny Yoo)
Jersey
A stretchy fabric with an easy drape, jersey is most often seen in casual clothing like T-shirts, but can occasionally be seen in bridesmaid dresses. It has a matte finish, but a very soft feel and a lot of bounce and swing. Best for casual weddings and perfect for the outdoors. (Dresses: Two Birds and J.Crew)
Curious about fabrications not listed here? Please leave questions in the comments and I’ll try my best to answer! What did you think of bridesmaid dress finishes you’ve worn? Which would you recommend and which do you never (ever) want to wear again?
Featured image via: Style Me Pretty. Dress retailers listed in image names.
I am partial to taffeta myself. I love this fabric guide. Thanks for sharing!
I know that I should pick styles in the same fabric if I want them to be the same color. Would it matter if they were both regular chiffon and crinkle chiffon?
Hmmm. I think you should probably call the retailer’s customer service line and ask. It’s going to depend on how they dye their fabric, so it’s hard to say across the board!
I sweat a lot. And I am a bridesmaid for a May wedding. Originally i wanted a stretch stain fabric but noticed a sweat stain once i took off a dress. What fabrics would you recommend. Also I am bottom heavy
Hi J.D.,
The best fabric choice to combat sweat marks would be a pure, lightweight fabric, like cotton. I’d say look for a jersey or voile style that is done in pure cotton, and avoid blends or synthetic fibers. Dress color choice can also help you out as sweat is less likely to show on a darker color.
Also a bridesmaid in May and love a crepe de chine. Worried about sweat too. What are your thoughts on this fabrics?
I guess fabrics with prints hide sweat marks better than plain fabrics
What material goes best with chiffon? Will the seamstress just overlay them? Or is there another material for the inside?
Do you have any suggestions as far as which fabrics/finishes for the bridesmaids best compliment which fabrics/finishes for the bride’s gown? My dress is charmeuse and I am trying to decide on the best fabric/finish option(s) for my girls. I don’t think that I want them in anything silky/satiny because I’m worried it will be all too shiny up there! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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What do you think of peachskin for a bridesmaid’s dress?
This was perfect!! Thank you
What about ivie material
Hello There! i am also a bride to be, just curious if using high multi chiffon would be good for drapings as well?
This has help me loads and I wish I had found it this morning!.. I have been looking at bridesmaid dresses on line all day, i knew i didnt want shiny like satin, but knew i wanted something summery but would hold its shape as a sort of hepburn prom dress, wasnt sure if taffeta was what i wanted, but now thinking cady or peau de soie.. thank you! 🙂
I’m wearing a Ralph Lauren long matte jersey dress to a black tie wedding right after Thanksgiving. I want to wear a wrap with it to stay warm. What fabric would you suggest? I was thinking something satin, but I don’t know if that would look right together. Thanks!
Can you wear a viscose-spandex blend as a bridesmaid dress? I found a convertible wrap dress in that material but I’m worried about that kind of fabric. Please advise.
https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=prom+dresses+tumblr&newwindow=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ejzfVPe1BeLVmgX2ooGICw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=639#imgdii=_&imgrc=bmsqBX9jJaIfrM%253A%3B27wz-RRwE-Du1M%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252F40.media.tumblr.com%252Fa4772954e115bbc4414b6a4572ddb494%252Ftumblr_mj9r3nOyww1r2rxxlo1_500.jpg%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.tumblr.com%252Ftagged%252Fnavy-prom-dresses%3B500%3B500
in that pic what kind of cloth should i use? please help 🙂 thanks!!
Hi can u guide me about the fabric silk satin .. Is it the same like charmeuse ? I’m very confused
This is a very helpful article, but your reference to “fabrics” and “finishes” is incorrect.
Cotton, silk, linen, polyester, wool, etc. refer to the “fiber, or blend of fibers” a fabric is constructed from (usually by weaving or knitting). The weave (plain, satin, twill, taffeta, etc.) or type of knit (tricot, single knit, double knit, etc.) determines the type of fabric. For example: The particular combination, i.e., heavy cotton threads or yarns woven in a twill weave of a color–indigo blue for instance–(usually lengthwise threads) and white (usually crosswise threads) results in denim (blue jeans fabric).
Finishes refer to pretty much anything done to a fabric AFTER it is woven or knitted (or constructed in some other way). This can include dyeing, chemical treatment to reduce shrinkage or prevent wrinkling, or sometimes to change the texture as in crinkled fabric, or mechanical treatment such as pressing with a hot iron to make it shiny or treating with heat to make it permanent press. There are many, many types of weaves and many more finishes which determine how the end product looks, feels, performs, wears, etc., AND what it is called!
When in doubt, read the label (it must tell you the fibers and percentages if 3% or more of a particular fiber is included in the fabric). Also, don’t be afraid to ask questions and insist on proof (see info on testing for fiber content)–even experts can be fooled!
Michelle James
Retired Cooperative Extension Clothing Specialist
M. S., Textiles, Clothing and Design
Hi Michelle ! Really interesting comment. Do you know if there is any way to make silk a bit less shiny (washing, special product..etc). Thanks a lot.
Can you help me there is a top online that I would like to purchase, in the title of it, it says its white cotton…. but then when I read the description of the top it says its chiffon, I don’t get it. Thank you for taking time out to answer this question. ps in the photo of the top it looks cotton not that flowing material chiffon. Thanks again
Hi I’m looking for a material for a wedding dress that almost looks like paper. I know that sounds weird but it’s just really crisp looking, like you could scrunch it up
Trade 80 now also offers a bespoke Design service for Digital prints on Silk Chiffons, Georgette, Crepe, Satins, Dupions, Linens and Cotton for Fashion as well as Furnishing applications.
What is satin chiffon? I’ve seen it on a couple websites, but I don’t know anything about it, nor have I seen it in person to my knowledge. I tried looking online, but I haven’t had much luck.
I found a dress made of gazar. Is that too heavy for a summer wedding in Sonoma?
Hi,
What would be a good fabric for a structured peplum dress for a early fall wedding?
would it be ok to wear a lace? or satin? balero jacket with a chiffon dress my daughter is getting married in october and i will be walking her down the isle. the dress is a long and sleeveless
Hello – I’m looking for the silk fabric that high-end kaftans are made from – are they chiffons or tricots, and what is the fabric weight? It needs to be modestly transparent, but be able to hold beading, and take foiling. Thank you
Gosh wow, that’s a lot of information !! I have to admit…most of it I have never even thought about before. That is what makes you a pro Sabrina.
What’s more flattering if you have a bit of a tummy….satin or chiffon?
I want to make a seven layerd peplum gown for dat i need a light weighted fabric little stiff with blend and smooth fall nd flexible fabric
What about elastic woven satin as a fabric, can it give an evening dress the poofiness needed and does it have vibrant colors?